Flying over the Pacific Ocean some 300 km south of Tokyo, an island looms into sight. Waves crash against the rocky coastline as the plane flies over dark green foliage and a scattering of houses, and soon it has touched down in Hachijoima.
Hachijojima, part of the Izu chain of volcanic islands that stretch out south of the Japanese capital, is a popular diving location, and its marine life carried by the Kuroshio Current also lures anglers.
But the island is also a place where visitors simply go to relax, whether soaking in hot springs or taking in the untouched scenery -- hillsides covered in aloe plants, bright hibiscus and bird of paradise flowers, waterfalls and blackened volcanic flatlands.
Yasuhiro Inoue, the operator of the five-room guesthouse Jugoya, in the Hachijo district, had this idea in mind when he moved to Hachijojima. After the strain of his job as a salaryman in Tokyo's busy Shinjuku district and seeing colleagues die from overwork, he decided to throw in the towel on city life. Hachijojima had attracted him as a diver, and he decided to make a living for himself on the island with the guesthouse, which is decorated with his underwater photographs. He agrees it was a big decision.
Yasuhiro Inoue gives a welcome wave at the Jugoya guesthouse on Hachijojima. (Mainichi)
Yasuhiro Inoue gives a welcome wave at the Jugoya guesthouse on Hachijojima. (Mainichi)
"It's harder financially, but I'm healthier," he says with a smile.
Nine out of 10 visitors who come to stay at Jugoya rent vehicles, Inoue says, adding that driving on the island, which has a population of under 8,500 people, is a breeze.
"If you can't drive on Hachijojima, you can't drive anywhere. It's considered a traffic jam when there are eight cars lined up," he says.
When touring Hachijojima, it's impossible to miss Hachijo Fuji, a dormant volcano which, at 854 meters, is the highest point in the Tokyo Islands. On the slopes of this volcano, whose last recorded eruption was in 1605, is Fureai Farm. A lookout point here surrounded by grassy slopes provides an extensive view of central Hachijojima and the coastline, together with a glimpse of the nearby island of Hachijo-kojima, which has been uninhabited since 1969.
Bright red flowers and palm trees contribute to the tropical island feel of Hachijojima. (Mainichi)
Bright red flowers and palm trees contribute to the tropical island feel of Hachijojima. (Mainichi)
A botanical garden on the islands gives a closer view of some of the flora that gives Hachijojima its island feel, including hibiscus flowers and palm trees. But don't mistake these plants as indicators that Hachijojima enjoys a lot of sunny weather -- the island has one of the highest rainfall rates in Japan, with an annual average of over 3,100 millimeters.
"That's more than double the rainfall of Tokyo," points out Takeshi Kikuya of the Hachijo Visitor Center. It is also windy on the island, and it's not uncommon for the stormy weather to ground flights and keep ships docked.
But there is still plenty to do on Hachijojima even when the weather takes a turn for the worse. The most obvious is a trip to one of the island's several hot springs. One of the most popular places is the Miharashi no Yu hot spring, which has a large indoor bath as well as an outdoor one facing the coast. The combination of the cool weather during the winter months and the steaming water make for a relaxing soak when looking out over the sea.
A weathered fence built from round stones provides gives a unique appearance to a road on Hachijojima. Fences built from these stones have guarded against the rough weather experienced on the island. (Mainichi)
A weathered fence built from round stones provides gives a unique appearance to a road on Hachijojima. Fences built from these stones have guarded against the rough weather experienced on the island. (Mainichi)
For the historically inclined, there is also the Hachijo Island Museum of History of Folklore, which for a modest 360 yen entry fee (150 yen for children under 12) sheds light on the island's history, with displays of old pottery and mirrors, modern and ancient tools. Hachijojima is believed to have been inhabited as many as 6,500 years ago, as pottery and stone tools dating back this time have been found on the island. A collection of drawings at the museum also highlights the island's past as a destination for exiles.
Hachijojima's history is also tied to its traditional production of a silk textile called Kihachijo -- in fact it is said that Hachijojima's name comes from the silk. The dying and weaving process can be seen at the Kihachijo Meyu Kobo factory.
A traditional drum performance is staged at the Hattori Yashiki-ato facility on Hachijojima. (Mainichi)
A traditional drum performance is staged at the Hattori Yashiki-ato facility on Hachijojima. (Mainichi)
Another cultural tradition can be seen at the Hattori Yashiki-ato facility in Hachijo, where performances using large taiko drums and a traditional dance called Kushitate no Teodori are sometimes staged. The accompaniment to the dances is simple: a single person singing over a microphone. But the dancers, dressed in yellow kimonos and wearing red or white headbands have no trouble keeping time, their synchronized steps and handclaps showing their familiarity with the routine.
After tasting the island's culture, visitors may want to sample the local cuisine. One common food travelers may come across is the leafy vegetable ashitaba (Angelica keiskei). In fact it may be difficult to avoid it. Ashitaba tempura is common on Hachijojima, and dishes such as ashitaba soba noodles and ashitaba mixed with a strong-smelling fermented fish dish called kusaya can also be found on menus, together with ashitaba tea. Fresh seafood abounds on Hachijojima, and fish that can be caught during the first four months of the year include amberjack, white trevally and striped beakfish.
Near Sokodo Port, visitors may come across the Anchor Pub. This local watering hole is run by Australian Scott Whitbread and visitors after a western meal will be pleased to find they can order Australian beer and wine here, among other imported drinks, together with Aussie steaks and burgers.
Hachijojima also has its own plentiful supply of shochu liquor. Locals have a tradition of downing the potent alcoholic drink by the bowlful.
"It's said on Hachijojima that if you drink a lot the night before, the weather is fine the next day," says Takaharu Sasaki of the Hachijojima Tourist Association.
Dark rocks protrude from the sea in windy weather on the coast of Hachijojima. (Mainichi)
Dark rocks protrude from the sea in windy weather on the coast of Hachijojima. (Mainichi)
When it rains despite a round of drinks the previous evening he jokes, "Maybe we didn't drink enough." At the same time he points out that the weather can quickly change on the island.
"When you think it's going to rain, the weather can suddenly clear," he says.
Rain or shine, Hachijojima certainly has enough attractions to draw the curious traveler, and introduce them to another side of the Japanese capital.
If you go:
Hachijojima is a short 45-minute flight away from Tokyo's Haneda Airport. Those who prefer the sea can board an evening passenger ship and be in Hachijojima by the next morning. As the weather can change easily and affect travel to and from Hachijojima, it pays to avoid a tight schedule. And due to the high rainfall, an umbrella can come in handy!
